Kiwis and Fairy Bread

20 May 2026

Today we would explore Bermuda in a little two seater GEM (General Electric Motorcar). The plan was to pick the car up and go straight to the popular Horseshoe Bay Beach and work our way back, stopping wherever we wished. In the evening we would drive out to Spanish Point to watch the sunset, then into Hamilton to see some fireworks (I can’t resist fireworks).

It took us a few kilometers to realize there was something weird about the car. True, it had plenty of room for us and our backpacks, and Mike said it handled and accelerated great. Bermuda being part of the British Commonwealth, we were of course driving on the left. But the steering wheel was on the American side. No problem. Mike is a pro.

Horseshoe Bay is the most popular beach in Bermuda. Upon arriving we were immediately asked if we would like to rent an umbrella and beach chairs (at $60.00? No thank you). At 10am it was already filled with tourists. We found a small patch of shade near a rock, spread out our towel, tied our belongings to our rain umbrella and went wading in the water.

I have to admit I was seduced by this beach. At this time of day the light on the waves made the aqua water look like moving, liquid glass. I could have watched it for hours.

The sand on this beach really is pink (because the local parrot fish eat the pink coral, then, well, to put it politely, dispose of it as crushed sand) As the waves crash, the waters mix in with the sand and create changing swirls of blue and pink. Beautiful.

Horseshoe Bay is a wide, long beach and even has a section of shallow water, warm and calm as a kiddie pool. It may just be the perfect beach.

But it was also hot. Very hot. So after an hour or so of walking and wading and dodging cruise tourists, it was time for us to move on.

Driving a bit down the road we arrived at Jobson’s Cove, and from there a short walk took us to Elsbeth Beach, where we had spent a lovely few hours one July. This is quite a spot and we recommend you find it if you can. There were only four other people on this beach, and plenty of shade. There were a couple of Scots (not sure if they were brothers or lovers) who were enjoying the water and their B & B. We read our novel for awhile and again enjoyed the surf, sand and long tails.

Next stop was John Smith’s Bay Beach, where our friend Nicole likes to go. The sand is white and there are plenty of locals. What we really loved is the green parkland alongside the beach. Tall trees provide plenty of shade. A horse and carriage rode by (?!) An older bearded man sat on a bench, still as a swami.

A woman name Tirrone showed us the fish she had just caught for dinner. A turbot. But she was worried that the scales on this young fish would be difficult to remove. She’d find a way to cook it anyway. (Many Bermudian’s go fishing with just a line, hook and a bit of bait)

Tirrone worked security for people getting on and off cruise ships. And they do not tend to plan well or prepare. No passport. No idea how to get from one place to another. They arrive late to get back on the ship for departure. And she confiscates lots shells and pink sand. (Something that the Bermuda government has cracked down on in recent years. It is precious resource). Still, she had a great attitude. I wish I had asked her what they do with all that confiscated sand.

Now Mike had an idea to go out to Frick’s Point, the easternmost point of the land we were on. It would give us a great view of Cooper’s Island Nature Reserve which had visited ten years ago.

Driving down the road we soon realized that this was a big money area. An immaculate golf course, private clubs, and huge, newly painted homes. We reached a gate with a guard house. A car was let in, a car was let out. It was clear we could go no further. Bermudians claim that all beaches are public. But that didn’t apply to the mile and half of land beyond this gate. Mike joked about getting a boat and going to one anyway.

Who needs a private club or a beach with a pool on it? Unless the poisonous Portuguese Man of War are visiting or a bad storm blows thru, the ocean water here is a pool. To each his own.

Then there was Bailey’s ice cream to visit, where we enjoyed some scoops while watching little kids chasing wild chickens (wild chickens are literally everywhere in Bermuda. And there always seem to be chicks).

Home for a bit to get out of the sun and have some dinner. Mike thought Spanish Point would be a great place to watch the sunset. As we drove out to just north of Hamilton, we noticed gatherings of cars and people, all facing the north west and when we reached Spanish Point the lot was almost full. Families greeted each other and took out their lawn chairs. Little kids road their bikes to and fro. Gotta love a place that makes a sunset a neighborhood event.

The Spanish Point park itself was nearly empty. A lonely place with two big rusting bulkheads and the carcass of an iron ship. Not quite the atmosphere we were looking for. I mentioned that along the way I noticed a little round parking lot that seemed to have a decent view. A few cars were already parked there. So we went to find it. And we are so glad we did!

Out of the car we were welcomed warmly. The romantic in me thought we had come across a band of smoking pirates who were burying treasure, or at least hiding some contraband rum. The truth was even better.

David seemed to be the unofficial mayor of the spot. He introduced us around. A little dog named Thunder was devoted to me for five whole minutes. I gave him lots of scratches until a teenager came by and Thunder left me to jump high and grab treats.

Meanwhile, Mike met a man named Jeremiah who took him down into some caves. The sea had carved natural benches and a tidal pool in the shape of a bathtub. David had decorated the place with colorful paper lanterns. It was a dark, scary, thrilling and amusing secret place.

Jeremiah was an electrician and David ran an air conditioning service company. There was plenty of work for them always. They even worked at a trade school, teaching young people what they do.

The neighbors were all happy to be here, watching this spectacular sunset together. It was so relaxed and happy. The cruise ships loomed large, but beside them was the darkening, open sea as the sun began it’s show. It was a huge bright golden disc in a coral colored sky. “I’ve seen the green” David said. “Have you seen the green?”

“Just once, possibly” I answered “But I keep looking for it”.

We could have stayed all night, but there were going to be fireworks in Hamilton, and I LOVE fireworks.

With a fond farewell we bid these fine people good night. As we pulled out I saw the black silhouette of a dog jumping up to a boy against an orange sky. It is a picture I will save in my memory forever.

Down in Hamilton, Harbor Nights was hopping! This weekly festival encourages Bermudians and tourists to enjoy local crafters and food vendors and local bands. Mike and I had been here in 2022 and although we had been warned it would be crowded, we didn’t think it was so. (We live in Central Jersey. We know crowds). But tonight was bigger and busier than four years ago. Maybe it was because opening night had been delayed to now because of last week’s storms. Maybe it was Bermuda Day weekend. Maybe Harbor Nights has simply caught on.

We wandered up and down the streets for an hour or so until 9:30, when the fireworks were to start.

We ended up finding the perfect spot. Sitting on a concrete pier, directly across from the barge on the other side of the bay.

As usual I ooo’d and ahhh’d and cheered and clapped. The fireworks lit up in hues of gold and silver, pink and blue (of course, because Bermuda is pink and blue). WOW.

The ride home was cool and quiet. Again the crescent moon shone down on us as the peeper frogs lulled us to sleep.

It was a true gem of a day