Kiwis and Fairy Bread

22 June 2025

With one last morning in San Francisco, we wandered once more into Golden Gate Park seeking a good cup of coffee and some atmosphere. At The Conservatory we saw Faurik again at his snack cart. He didn’t have coffee, but noted that so many people asked him for it, he was thinking of setting up his own shop. He talked about life in this city, the rents and how much he is relishing his new little apartment with no roommates. Faurik, you make all the people you encounter feel good about themselves. It is a gift!

Down the road we heard music and sat for bit listing to The Cross City Trio. These old timers made everyone feel welcome as they played folk-rock tunes on bass, guitar and harmonica. A toddler holding a worn and well-loved stuffed monkey enjoyed the music as much as we did. We couldn’t have asked for a nicer way to say good bye to San Francisco.

Took an Uber to the airport to pick up our rental car and we were soon driving over The San Francisco Bay via the San Mateo Hayward Bridge. It was tall and long! And apparently the 25th longest bridge in the world at 7 miles! In case you are interested, the longest bridge in the world is a railway bridge in china that is 100 miles).

Stopped at a Whole Foods for supplies as we’d heard that Yosemite stores were expensive and limited. I took the wheel for an hour or so through a valley filled with peach and almond orchards. As soon as we turned into the mountains, Mike took over.

He is such a confident and masterful driver. Seriously, he’s got nerves of steel. The only way to get into Yosemite is via a winding road on a steep cliff. I hadn’t held on this tightly since we drove in New Zealand from Himatangi to Wellington (see post from December 19th 2023), OR when driving this very same road with infant Emi in 1992. But being with Mike, I am never truly afraid.

The long and winding road took us to the door of Yosemite Valley where we were greeted by Bridalveil Fall in all its peaceful beauty. We could not have timed it more perfectly. The sun was setting at just the right angel to form a rainbow across the streaming water. The airy sprays of water looked to me like hundreds of soaring spirits. It was indescribably beautiful.

The rainbow faded, the twilight began to fall. Back in the car to drive to our accommodation.

Now when we decided to take this trip back in early January, all, yes all, of the Yosemite Valley hotels and cottages were booked. The only place that had any availability at all was called Yosemite West Scenic Wonders. These privately owned loft and studio apartments are rented out like Airbnbs. We grabbed it for 4 nights and planned the rest of this vacation around those dates.

For your information, Yosemite Valley is at 4000 feet of elevation. Being literally born at sea level, my body doesn’t adjust easily to high elevations. I had been taking aspirin for weeks in preparation. Still, I didn’t realize quite how high up our apartment would be. Mike drove, fearlessly of course, up yet another winding road. “5000” feet, a sign read. The steep mountain landscape was scarred by wildfires. “6000” feet, read another sign. Where was this place?! The map said there would be a right turn. But as far as we could tell, any right turn would take us right off the cliff! Finally, I see something in the distance that might be condos. But where was the road?

At about 6500 feet the road appeared and we found the condo complex to be filled with families, all excited to be here. A little boy with a head of hair like a dandelion greeted me and showed me the giant pine cone he has just picked up.

Our apartment was a loft, almost identical in style to the places we rented in Bermuda and Cornwall. This one had a balcony and Mike and I ate rice and hot smoked salmon as a huge orange globe of a sun went down.

To paraphrase Paul McCartney: Do leave me standing here. Let me know the way.