Kiwis and Fairy Bread

4-5 July 2024

These two days would bring us three very different views of Cornwall: from a pristine castle and gardens to a windy and rugged coastline to a crowded coastal town with narrow streets and surfers.

St Michaels Mount is a Cornish must-do.. This castle, perched atop a tall, rocky island is the impressive home of Lord and Lady St Levan. It is part of the ocean skyline in this rare. But I had to wonder, why would a lord and lady choose to live way out here? Well, after seeing the property, and getting to know the area, we understand. The house and gardens really are exquisite.  It’s clear the family and their staff work very hard to keep it impressive.

First off, one has to get there.  There is a land bridge of several hundred meters, but it is only passable when the tide is low.  When it is high, the castle provides (at an additional charge to entry of course) a small ferry for the crossing.

Mike and I timed our visit to be able to walk.  It is a very old walkway made of the unique local stone, created when granite boiled up into the existing sedimentary rock, broke it into rectangular shards and cooled very quickly.  On this path the granite blocks are so exposed to the whims of the tides that they have wide gaps between them and can be quite slippery with algae.  One has to be very careful.  Just off the pathway sea kelp sways and barnacles cling.

The castle is high above the changing sea and as such the climb is not easy. Despite all the warnings, many people were not prepared.  I lent my arm to one of them up a flight of uneven stone steps.  A child’s sticker map I was following had a treasure hunt. First was to find giant’s well and his heart.  An educator was telling the story of giant named Cormoran and a boy name Jack. (Cormoran is also the name of one of my favorite fictional detectives, who grew up in Cornwall.  Great choice of name J.K!). 

The top of the Mount offered nice views of Penzance and the coast, but inside was the real treat.  Flowers, picked and judicially arranged daily by Lady St Levan herself, adorned almost every room.  The silver tea service on display was polished, as was all the armor, including the samurai suit (armor? Uniform? What does one call the formal wear of a samurai?)   Scenes depicted in the ancient stained glass window were stories from the Bible and local folklore alike. The chapel was modest with bells that still rang on Sundays. In the blue room a guide told us that this is where the ladies retired after dinner.  I pointed out it was the same shade as Cornish pottery. She’d never thought of that, but did show us the photographs of the visits of Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Phillip as well as King Charles II and Queen Camilla (their footprints in brass are along the walkway below.  Phillip had size 13 feet just like my father, brother and son).  

There was not a scent of must nor speck of dust anywhere.  It is a light, airy, stately home.  And in our experience, that is a rarity.  

Outside, the terraced gardens beckoned.  Succulents abounded. Very popular in the gardening world right now, a local pointed out to me with so much wind, Cornwall is actually very dry and these plants do well here. We came across a garden of yellow and orange flowers and I spoke to a woman sitting on a bench enjoying the view.  She told me that the Cornish are the nicest people in all of England.  Although we will always be partial to Derbyshire, after a few days here Mike and I must agree with her too!

The real standout feature of St Michaels Mount was, to me, the flowers of bright pink that scaled the walls.  They matched the scaffolding where workmen repaired the castle walls! Now that is class. The next time I have my own home worked on, I am going to follow Lady St Levan’s example and insist the scaffolding matches my flowers!

Dinner of Cornish Pasties, which have protected status just like Champagne (I was corrected in a shop when I said I made them at home.  I cannot call them Cornish!). And then a journey to Land’s End.

It was early evening and Mike had planned for a good walk for us.  Parking in a town called Senna Cove we took the mile and a half coastal trail to the famous Land’s End.  It was a cold, windy, lonely, rocky walk.  But not in a bad way. The surf was up, crashing against the steep cliffs.  The ruins of an ancient castle stood on a hill.  We touched stones placed over a 1000 years ago. Pink and purple flowers looking like puffy Queen Anne’s Lace dotted the hillside.  A few people were power walking.  We surprised a pair of lovers.  

And then we were there.  At the very western tip of Britain. At this late in the day, no crowds, no fuss.  Just us, on a cliff, looking into the sea beyond.

We’d been hoping to see the sun set, but a storm was clearly brewing.  Walking more quickly down the trail we viewed a sixty year old shipwreck, all rusted and still wobbling in the waves. The waters here are still too dangerous to remove it.  The rain started just as we got back to the car.

And the rain continued through the next day, as we took the train to St Ives. No, we did not meet a man with seven wives.  But it was a nice little journey on the renowned Great Western Railway.  We were advised by the conductor which side to sit on for the best views.  Multicolored flowers adorned the train station.  This is such a nice area in so many ways! 

St Ives is a  popular destination in Cornwall.  It is an old city with narrow cobblestone streets lined with shops and homes.  In a window a man was making Cornish Pasties. I watched, eager as always to learn how the real bakers do it.  I was very kindly told that it’s all a trade secret.  I admired his skill all the same.

The beaches are an attraction even in the rain.  A young woman in a shop selling art glass suggested a spot where we might find some sea glass.  Although my father has a huge collection of sea glass from Bay Head, it would be nice to find some on this side of the Atlantic.  Mike and I beachcombed in the pouring rain and found a few gleaming pieces. There were also white muscle shells with patches of bright blue, and tiny clam shells. Iwill add them to my collection of shells from around the world.

On a stone pier we found a family catching crabs.  They had been advised to use bacon as bait (I mean, who doesn’t like British bacon?!) and they were having great success.  The crabs were rounded and fat, a deep red color with smallish claws.  I asked if the crabs were male or female.  The family did not know, so I astounded the boy by reaching right into the bucket and grabbing a crab by it’s middle.  Look at the pattern on the belly, I said.  If it is rounded it’s female.  If it looks like a sword, it is male.  So far they had one of each.

Looking into the waters I was fascinated by the kelp.  Long thick stems, feathery leaves like ferns, and bright green strands that truly look and feel like the hair of mermaids.

It was still pouring rain and Mike’s sister Jan had recommended to us The Tate Museum.  It was a nice place to spend a few dry hours.  Not a big museum but some famous pieces, such as Mark Ruthco’s Red Room, which we had seen a play about. In my opinion the best work of all was the view outside the window. Surf School was in session and Mike and I always enjoy watching surfers.

Out of the museum we went in search of a coffee.  Tables were hard to come by, but we managed to find one in an “American”style cafe.  Not very American, and I was OK with that as I enjoyed my jacket potato with cheese and a pot of tea.

Back on the train to Penzance and back to our rental, called “The Loaf” (because it’s on Bread Street). We dried out and watched the Euro.  It was so very comfortable.  I fell asleep as France and Portugal took their penalty kicks. Kittens, cats, sacks, wives, how many were going to St Ives?