Kiwis and Fairy Bread

28-30 March 2025

We just had to get away. It’s been a rough couple of months for Mike and I. Both our fathers passed away, and that took us to England for a week in October and to Bay Head each week for months. Upon the realization that there was something on the calendar for every single weekend from now until July, Mike and I decided to spend a weekend together. Someplace away from home where we would ignore texts, phone calls, emails, and the disheartening news media.

We started our search in the mountains of North Jersey. Crystal Springs Resort with its mineral pools was tempting, but too expensive. Our beloved cabins on Lake Occquitunk are undergoing restoration. And nothing in The Poconos caught our eye. But then we thought, what if we just went to the Jersey Shore, and didn’t tell my family? Or anyone for that matter.

A look for small hotels north of The Manasquan River quickly found us The Ridgewood House in Sea Girt NJ, just on the border of Spring Lake. We liked the name (both he and my mother went to Ridgewood High School) and the price was right. Within minutes we had booked The Royal Suite. Within 24 hours, we were there!

This old Victorian House is just one block from the beach. The Royal Suite takes up half the first floor of the house, with a comfortable bed room, bathroom and a living room with a view of the ocean. Out the door and down the hall is a kitchen just for the use of the suite. A porch wraps around the entire house and there is a lovely backyard. There are twelve other rooms in the hotel, a common area and small kitchen for them and a separate guest house in the back.

When we arrived it was SO quiet! No other guests could be seen or heard. We settled in quickly and went for a walk on the boardwalk.

This boardwalk runs over 5 miles from Spring Lake to Asbury Park, going through the towns of Belmar, Avon-by-the-Sea, Bradley Beach, and Ocean Grove along the way. Each town treats its boardwalk differently.

In Spring Lake, the boardwalk is on its own. Ocean and sand on one side, a road on the other. Along this road are very large homes, mostly in the Victorian or Neo-Victorian style. They are beautiful, with porches and balconies, turrets and windows. Anchoring them all is the Essex and Sussex, a huge gilded-age hotel turned event space and condominiums.

I have always loved The Essex and Sussex. As a child in the 1970s my mother would take me there for shows that featured flowers and dollhouses. The hotel was crumbling and faded, far past its heyday as a resort for the rich and famous. And yet I distinctly remember the aura of luxury. I could see women in high collars and corsets, their gowns dripping with satin and lace, descending the grand staircase. Men in tuxedos and long mustaches greeted them. I could hear classical music coming from the ballroom. Hear the creek of rocking chairs on the covered porches. I longed to be there. Maybe I was seeing the ghosts.

No ghost sightings for Mike and I as we walked a mile or so on the boardwalk that evening, and then into town to get something to eat. Along the way we admired the intricate houses, the immaculate lawns, abundant trees and confusing sign posts. These waist high white obelisks read very strangely to us. First Street Street? Third Road Avenue? See the photo below to see what I mean.

It was cloudy and cold and Spring Lake’s shopping and dining district was pretty empty. Fortunately a shop was open that would become central to our lives: The Third Avenue Chocolate Shop. Filled with the scent of chocolate, a friendly staff and a variety of truly delicious delights, most of which are made right there, we were in heaven. We bought a small box of peanut butter cups, dark chocolate covered sea salt caramels, almond bark and turtles.

My first thought on tasting the Peanut Butter cups was that I should buy some for my dad. Then tears came to my eyes. They were one of his favorite candies, dating back to the as-still-unsolved family mystery of the missing Halloween Reeses cups of 1974. Was it he? Not really his style, but for years after I found empty Reeses wrappers in my treat bag. He did love a good joke….

Having had dessert first, it was time for dinner. We found The Spring Lake Bistro and Pizza and ordered an excellent Broccoli White. There were impressionist murals on the walls for which the artist used so much paint they were almost sculptures. Alongside the artwork were televisions broadcasting the NCAA Women’s Basketball Finals. Lovely! Something we cared little about. We sat back and relaxed.

Back at The Ridgewood we read aloud from the book All the Beauty in the World about the experiences of a guard at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. A great book, easy to read a chapter or so, then put it down and pick it up whenever you have the time again.

Mike played guitar as I edited a story I wrote for submission. And we ate chocolate. The bed was almost too soft, but we slept well.

We awoke early to watch the sunrise from the comfort of the living room couch. Perfect! As dawn broke joggers and power walkers streamed by. Packing up for a day on the boardwalk and questionable weather, we set off in search of a good cup of coffee and more chocolate.

Within minutes it started to rain, so we stopped, dug out our packed jackets and noticed that something was happening at the lake in the center of Spring Lake. There was a crowd. They seemed impatient. Apparently it was the day of the Annual Trout Release and the trout truck was late. People seemed worried. But by the time we crossed the wooden bridge to the site the truck had arrived at last. We watched as a man dipped a bucket into a truck and passed it along a line of excited families to the water’s edge, where teens in high waders released the fish. Kids of all ages watched the fish swim away. They would return next weekend for The Annual Trout Catch.

A few blocks on we ordered our latte and flat white at The Driftwood Coffee House, a unique establishment were one can buy over-the-counter distance and reading glasses as well as coffee. We actually watched a man pick out a pair. The coffee was only OK.

Third Avenue Chocolates was open! A bag of chocolates and then next door to an Irish gift shop where they sold British treats! Mike considered the Chocolate-covered Digestives and I tried on a beautiful green wool coat. It was already getting warm though, too warm for wool. And we had plenty of sweets already.

The boardwalk was already crowded when we arrived for the morning. Everyone, it seemed, wanted to get out and enjoy this first gorgeous day of spring. I waved to residents of The Essex and Sussex sitting on their balconies. Entering Belmar we watched kids in the playgrounds that are right on the beach. From here on north into Asbury Park businesses line the avenue across from the boardwalk. There are a few houses among them. With such a beautiful beach, it is surprising that there are no actual beach-front homes here.

Mike and I walked onto the beach to catch some rays, but the wind had picked up again (it has been an unusually windy spring in NJ). Sand was getting everywhere (it was in my hair for days!) and it kind of hurt. So we moved on north into Avon-by-the Sea and Bradley Beach. We chatted with Suhel, a snappily dressed musician and philosopher. In a covered pavilion we listened as a pair of old cronies complained that the place was crawling with bennies, and they were here much too early.

“Bennies” is the local Ocean and Monmouth County term for tourists. I have used the term all my life, but only recently found out that it comes from “Bayonne Elizabeth Newark”. The day trippers who used to come in on the train and stereotypically wore socks and sandals and reeked of suntan oil. Like shore towns around the world, residents both loath and depend on these tourists, whatever the term for them. I can’t complain, these dining-out bennies tipped me well and paid my college tuition. Those were the days!

But back to these days where it was so hot and sunny our chocolate had melted. Instead we enjoyed a classic soft ice cream cone at a stand where the owner was telling a familiar customer this was his last season. Next year he’d be selling the business to his manager. I have no doubt he will then be on the boardwalk lamenting the early arrival of bennies.

Back to The Ridgewood for a nice nap and a blissfully uneventful evening. It got cold again. We read, wrote, played and ate chocolate. A family from Kentucky had checked into the hotel. They recently moved to the area and were experiencing the Jersey Shore for the first time. “Is there really a lot of money in the area?” She asked. “In this town? Yes. Big money. Old and new”.

A poor dog across the street barked throughout the night. But neither that, nor our first sunburn of the year, could keep us awake after our glorious day in the sun.

We awoke to cold, fog and wind. Saying good bye to The Ridgewood we packed up and headed downtown. Settled into the Marigold Cafe and people watched as we enjoyed excellent coffee and croissants. Went back to that Irish shop and bought that green wool coat. I sure needed it now. And of course, got more chocolate.

The plan had been to walk along the boardwalk from Belmar to Asbury Park. 10 minutes into the walk and we turned around. Cold, wet and windy: our personal triple threat.

Still, it had been a lovely weekend. Just the kind of relaxing time together that we needed. I have always thought Spring Lake was the nicest Jersey Shore town, second only to Bay Head of course. It was wonderful to finally have a chance to get to know it better. We’ll certainly be back to the town and back to The Ridgewood.

And here I am, almost a month later, on another warm day, sitting under the canopy of glorious carnation pink on our Kwanzan cherry trees. Against the pale blue sky the contrast of blue and pink is truly my favorite site of the year. I can never quite capture it in a photograph. And that is just fine. The last few months have been trying, but this moment, like that weekend in March, is beautiful. And just what we need.