Kiwis and Fairy Bread

2 July 2024

One of my favorite literary scenes is from Jane Austen’s Persuasion. A group of young friends is vacationing in Lyme Regis. In the early morning they walk along The Cobb, an inviting and dangerous looking wall along the shore. They greet each other and nod to a handsome, significant acquaintance. Later in the day in this very same spot the lovely but foolish Louisa Musgrove will say “Catch me” and tragedy will ensue. But at this moment, life is full and happy. It is these scenes that brought Mike and I to Lyme Regis.

Like Ann Elliot and friends we breakfasted at our inn, spreading jam on our toast and enjoying a “flipped” egg with our cups of tea. Like Ann we walked along the Cobb on a sunny morning. Looked into the clear cool sea, watched the sail boats, stepped carefully on the sloped stone wall and narrow steps. We nodded to families, and had a lovely conversation with a young couple who are fans of the same genres as we. Fortunately, we were not foolish and therefore no tragedy ensued.

Lyme Regis is famous for an abundance of fossils. In the 19th century an intelligent woman of no education name Mary Anning dug, documented, researched, and sold fossils from the Jurassic period. They included entire dinosaurs, and lots of marine species. Much of her credit was given to others until recently. While we were there groups of students were learning and digging, and we heard an exclamation of “I found one!”.

After walking the entire shoreline from one end of town to the other, we very reluctantly got into the car for the three hour drive to Penzance, Cornwall.

The first sign of worry came at a rest stop. Several stores were selling thick waterproof capes lined with fleece. Was Cornwall really that cold, I asked the young sales clerk? Those were for changing on the beach, she said. But yes, it would be a bit chilly.

Arriving late in the afternoon we found our rental to be just as expected. An incredibly charming little house for two, decorated in blue tones with copper fixtures. Fresh scones with jam and clotted Cornwall cream were waiting on the well worn wooden table. But the town, well, I don’t know.

Most of the stores on the High Street were closed or border up. After picking up some groceries a woman shouted in the streets about the injustices put upon her. The weather had turned cold, dark and damp. A night in was clearly called for. And there was, after all, The Euro.

Why had we chosen Penzance? Or even Cornwall at all? Neither Mike nor I can recall. Except that we had never been here, and it was drivable from Heathrow. A travel video by Rick Steves recommended it. This tiny house was half of the price of anything in the more popular town of St Ives. But this city seems so blah, gritty. Is it even safe? I was much regretting leaving Lyme Regis.

But tomorrow was another day. And it would be a good one.