Kiwis and Fairy Bread

24 June 2024

For our first full day in London we decided to split up. Ben lead Mike and I on a trip to Greenwich. Emily and David decided to explore The Victoria and Albert Museum.

At the south bank the three of us hopped on an UberBoat (water bus) to head down the Thames. Though not technically a tour boat, it still gives great views of the city. The architecture is varied: ornate classical, post modern, curved buildings that seem sculpted in glass, apartments with little balconies of blue against red brick, others with terraces filled with trees. And amongst these The Globe Theatre, Tower of London and the beautiful Tower Bridge.

Off the boat at Greenwich we grabbed some lunch near The Cutty Sark, a tall masted tea ship that was once the fastest ship in the world. And then we just started wandering.

Music poured out of the windows of The Greenwich School of Music and Drama. Someone was putting a lot of energy into their piano practice. Another was singing opera. We found ourselves down a tunnel and somehow in a chapel: one of the most beautiful churches we have ever seen! A plaster ceiling in gold and blue, it almost looked like it was made of Wedgewood pottery. The entire complex we were in was at one time a hospital for military pensioners. This was their church. We were invited to the Choral Evensong late that afternoon. The choir was said to be excellent.

Our next find was The Queen’s House, the front of which I recognized from a BBC production of one of my favorite Dicken’s novels, Our Mutual Friend. How wonderful to walk in the steps of the lovely Bella Wilfer!

Inside was an amazing portrait gallery where we saw the famous “Armada” painting of Queen Elizabeth I in all her resplendency. Across the room hung a classic of her father Henry VIII, as well as her brother, young Edward the VI. Modern works featured slaves who would have been present in historical renderings, but were not thought worthy of the paint. We could have wandered all day.

But the Royal Observatory called. Before heading up the hill it was time for The Daily Ritual. Many people were picnicking on the lawn of Greenwich and we enjoyed our ice cream under the shade of a huge tree.

A bit of background about the Observatory: In the mid 17th century shipping was big and navigation increasingly important. So King Charles II commissioned this observatory to collect astronomical data. And then his scientists decided to declare 0 degrees longitude right at their front door. It’s a thick line in brass. And here we are.

Inside we found famous clocks. In the mid 1700’s John Harrison took on the tasks of making clocks so that sailors could determine their longitude. He was convinced that navigation depended not on the stars, but time. He was right. , His work changed navigation forever. These stunning, intricate, working pieces are on display and wound each day by the Clock Master.

Up a staircase we found ourselves at the actual telescope. It was like stepping into an old sci-if film. The telescope filled the room top to bottom and the lighting was blue. It was quiet and cool. Once important to scientific research, this piece is still used for educational programs.

It was too late to check out The Naval Museum, but we did want to catch that concert. I hadn’t realized it would be an actual church service. We stayed for only a portion, but oh the choir! It made some of the most beautiful music that Ben, Mike and I had ever heard. About 2 dozen music students harmonized Psalms and prayers in rich tones that were truly heavenly. The sound cannot be described. But I hope to always remember it.

Back on the boat to Waterloo, we grabbed fish and ships at Fishcoteque (what a great name!) which we shared back at the apartment with Emi and David. They had had their own wonderful day walking passed Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace and Kensington to The Victoria and Albert Museum, which they throughly enjoyed. Emi entered the Tea Shop of her dreams. On the way back they even found a Philadelphia themed bar! Already they plan to come back here someday with their friends.

At 9pm patrons streamed out of The Old Vic, the end of a play starring James Corden. Emi and David decided to check out the roof top bar across the street. We waved to them from our balcony.

Life is good.