Kiwis and Fairy Bread

26 December 2023

With a warm good bye to the Claxtons we started our drive out of Akaroa, and promptly realized we needed gas. I mean, we really needed gas. But it was Boxing Day, the day-after-Christmas holiday when shops are still closed and most people in NZ head out for some fun. Although Boxing Day is celebrated throughout the British Commonwealth, it’s just not something we thought would affect us. Until the first two petrol stations we passed were closed. Thankfully the third was a charm. The Māori woman there said that the place was run by “Hong Kong People”, who didn’t do Boxing Day. She was happy to help us all the same.

Which brings me to long over due word about the Māori people. They are some of the most cheerful and helpful people we have met here. And there are many of them: which is great because this was their land first (since 6000 years ago). Although nothing can make up for the violent atrocities that these people suffered at the hands of people from the Western Hemisphere, their culture is present almost everywhere. The Maori language is taught to all the school children, many of the places are known by their Māori and English names, the Maori style of art is integrated into clothing, jewelry, signs, downtown plazas, gateways and playgrounds. “Kia Ora” is a common formal greeting. Mike and I are so impressed about how this country of New Zealand/ Aotearoa has combined all of their cultures. It is not perfect by any means. Maori tribes are still fighting for governing rights to their own lands and important spiritual sites. The newly elected right wing majority party is threatening to take away much of the gains Maori have made in recent years. And the new party may well succeed in doing that. It would be such a crime if they do. From our perspective, this country is much richer together than apart.

The road to the Southern Alps took us through rocky cliffs, meadows of blooming purple lupins and lots of farm lands. Water rights are an issue here. One that the government, who is trying to conserve drinking, farming and recreational waters, and the farmers are clashing over. Signs of “STOP 3 WATERS” is a common site along fields. We observed rivers that are completely dry or close to drying up. It looked so much like the Western United States. Same kind of land, same kind of issues.

Our plan for the night was to find a place to “Freedom Camp” along either Lake Tekapo or Lake Pukaki. A Freedom Camp is basically a parking lot with a view for which “self contained vehicles” (a.k.a it has its own water and a toilet) can stay over night with no fee. Spots are many and apps and maps help find and rate them. Potential Freedom Camping places are clearly marked with a sign stating whether or not it is allowed. Mike had several Freedom Camping places picked out.

First up was Lake Tekapo where the waters were very low, and the water temperature was hot. Many people were swimming in it. But the signs were clear that this was not a spot to stay overnight so we moved on down the road about half an hour to Lake Pukaki. Along the way we stopped at the famous old stone church named Good Shepherd. It looks very remote in post cards. Not so in reality: there were hundreds of tourists! Quickly we moved on to see a spot on our map that had a great view of Mt. Cook/Aoroki. We approached the wide parking lot: no signs of any kind. Below were trails and above were picnic tables. This must be it! Mike parked and we settled in.

It was hard to get to the trail down to shore of Lake Pukaki, but we managed by walking quickly along the highway and bushwhacking a bit. The water here was cooler and the view got better by the minute. Up on a hill we recorded some poetry in front of a setting sun (to post on our Don’t Panic Poetry Project Facebook page upon our return. We’ll let you know when it’s up). And then it got really cold! Dinner in the van and to bed. But then the full moon rose! WHAT A SIGHT! A poem came to me. You can read it when it’s ready.

But why was there only one other car camping here? Surely this was a perfect spot.

Layers of pajamas and blankets and our coats got us through a very cold and windy night. Miranda our camper van is very cozy and comfortable.

I was awoken in the middle of the night by a bright light. The full moon, surrounded by a rainbow was shining and shimmering over the lake. I stared and stared until I fell asleep again

Tomorrow we get closer to the mountain. We will camp at White Horse Hill, one of the darkest places on Earth. Will we see the moon again? Will we see the Southern Cross and upside down Orion? Will we at last see the Milky Way? Stay tuned loyal readers…..